Vipassana Meditation Retreat at Forest Temple Wat Pa Tam Wua in the Northern Mountains of Thailand

Vipassana meditation retreat

The Vipassana meditation retreat in Northern Thailand was part of a journey that I was looking forward to very much. It was to be my first Vipassana experience. I approached it without many expectations but envisioned a time of silence, a strict diet, and a small, group of participants. Vipassana practice is renowned for its rigorous schedule, often involving 10-11 hours of meditation daily, starting as early as 5 a.m. From the schedule provided on the temple’s website, I calculated approximately four hours of guided practice daily and assumed it would be less demanding than Zen Buddhist or pure mindfulness retreats I had previously attended.

Upon arrival, I was surprised by the size of the temple grounds and the number of participants. Registration was well-organized, and every arrival received clear instructions about the rules, as this was a meditation retreat held within an active Buddhist monastery. Rules included prohibitions on drugs, alcohol, smoking, and sexual misconduct, as well as refraining from lying on the beautifully maintained lawns, where sitting was permitted, but yoga and similar practices were considered inappropriate. On average, about 130 participants were present, a record number in the temple’s 30-year history. People of all ages, belief systems, and religions seemed drawn to the retreat, seeking inner balance, peace, and joy—gifts meditation has to offer, probably more than ever before.

The temple’s capacity for accommodating such a large group was impressive. The grounds were beautifully maintained, featuring a small pond with fish and a stunning mountain backdrop. New arrivals were assigned to large dormitories, though one could apply for a shared kuti (hut) for more privacy and quiet during personal meditation practice. Sleeping arrangements included a one-centimeter-thick fabric mat, a small pillow, and two blankets, along with white shirts and trousers as part of the Vipassana tradition. While sleeping on such a hard surface can be challenging for those accustomed to soft mattresses, it helps straighten the back and cultivates a mindset of welcoming discomfort without judgment, and cultivating the virtue of humbleness. By the second night, I found the setup surprisingly satisfying and grounding. Despite bringing an air mattress in my luggage, I chose not to use it and embraced the experience fully, even the occasional noise from dormmates.

I stayed at the retreat for six days. The length of the stay is left to each individual’s decision. For five days, I remained in silence, and on the last day, I allowed conversations to emerge naturally. Although participants are invited to remain silent, silence is not mandatory, which especially many younger participants appreciated as it allowed them to share their experiences and emotions. Another unique aspect of this retreat is that there is no fixed fee; it operates on a contribution-based system called “dāna.” This contribution is meant to align with each individual’s financial capacity.

The retreat and meditation sessions were remarkable. Meditating alongside 130 participants from around the globe and monks who had dedicated their lives to this practice created a profound and unique atmosphere. Each session consisted of approximately 40 minutes of walking meditation, 20-25 minutes of sitting meditation, and 10 minutes of lying meditation—manageable even for beginners. I highly recommend this retreat to anyone new to meditation or seeking a more accessible retreat experience. The monks provided clear instructions in English and gave insightful Dhamma talks on Buddhist teachings. Evening activities included an hour of chanting in English and Thai, followed by meditation.

The structure of the schedule and activities provided by monks and the temple were filled with  kindness, and every effort was made to ensure participants felt nurtured alongside discipline of a meditation practice. Meals—delicious vegetarian Thai dishes—were served twice daily, and one could eat to their heart’s content. The absence of meals after 12 a.m. could be mitigated with snacks from an on-site kiosk. Walking meditations were also highlights, with a slower-paced session around the temple grounds at noon and a more energetic walk to a forest cave in the afternoon.

Part of the retreat experience included an hour of work or “seva,” a Sanskrit term meaning selfless service. Tasks varied from sweeping and kitchen assistance to laundry or other duties, fostering mindfulness and community contribution. How often do we truly practice selfless service in our daily lives?

I also enjoyed the daily opportunity to ask the monks questions after meditation. While I did not had questions myself, I was curious to hear others’ inquiries and the monks’ responses. One recurring and strongly manifested theme was anger, particularly among younger participants aged 20-25. Many expressed frustration about global injustices, wars, and environmental destruction, viewing their anger as a driving force for positive change for their lives. To their surprise, the monk’s initial response was a simple “No, it is not good for you and your surroundings,” accompanied by laughter and little explanation. The following day, during a Dhamma talk, the topic was addressed in greater depth, emphasizing that anger—while natural—is ultimately harmful and rooted in suffering. This resonated deeply with me and highlighted the importance of addressing emotions with mindfulness and understanding.

The retreat provided an excellent foundation for meditation practice, regardless of the participants’ religious beliefs. Although Vipassana stems from Buddhist traditions, it can be practiced by anyone, with mindfulness serving as its cornerstone. At times, it was challenging to reconcile the dogmatic views of Buddhism, rooted in monastic settings, with life in modern society. As a result, explanations from monks often failed to resonate with younger people or led to confusion and misunderstandings.

In this, I see a fundamental difference in the secular perspective of mindfulness, which I embraced through MBSR (Mindfulness-Based Stress Reduction). This contrast strengthened my appreciation for the clarity and inclusivity of MBSR, which integrates mindfulness with modern science and psychology, offering tools to manage stress, pain, and emotions without religious or dogmatic frameworks.

The Essence of Meditation Retreats

Meditation retreats provide an opportunity to step away from the constant demands of daily life, ego-driven narratives, and the constant pursuit of success and validation. They invite us to shift consciously into a state of being—a space where walking, sitting, breathing, and observing become the sole focus. This simplicity allows us to notice and let go of thoughts, sensations, and emotions with gentle intention, cultivating awareness without attachment. Through this process, we reconnect with ourselves and gain insight into the depth of life that modern distractions often obscure.

True contentment doesn’t come from chasing fleeting pleasures or satisfying cravings but from embracing life’s impermanence with acceptance. Letting go of “important” thoughts and desires teaches us to approach them as passing phenomena—not as defining aspects of who we are. This profound shift, central to mindfulness practice, aligns with Buddhist psychology’s wisdom while addressing the root causes of suffering.

Virtues Are Protected by Their Own Virtues

A quote written on a forest sign near the temple read: “Virtues are protected by their own virtues.” This profound truth invites us to reflect on the essence of virtues and their role in our lives. Virtues, such as kindness, patience, honesty, and compassion, inherently safeguard themselves. When we cultivate and embody these qualities, they create a self-reinforcing cycle—one that shields us from the destructive forces of greed, anger, and ignorance.

According to Buddhism, negative qualities grow within us much faster than positive ones. Negativity spreads and is contagious, just like positivity. This makes it all the more crucial to maintain meditation practices as reminders to cultivate and grow our positive virtues. By regularly engaging in meditation, we create a space to nurture these qualities, ensuring they thrive despite the challenges of daily life. Through consistent practice, virtues not only protect themselves but also uplift and inspire others, fostering harmony and resilience in an interconnected world.

By practicing and cultivating virtues, we naturally attract positivity and foster harmony within ourselves and with others. They become our compass, guiding us through life’s challenges with integrity and resilience. To be aware of our virtues and nurture them is to build a foundation of inner strength and wisdom. In moments of difficulty, they remind us of our higher purpose and the beauty of living with intention and mindfulness. What virtues guide your life, and how do you cultivate them?

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